Dealing with bryopsis. - Carolina Fish Talk
 14Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
post #1 of 56 (permalink) Old 01-02-2012, 10:59 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
Shortfin Mako
 
redfishsc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Summerville, SC
Posts: 9,979
Dealing with bryopsis.

I'm starting this thread mostly so I can link back to it since I offer this advice frequently. So here is my own advice on dealing with bryopsis.


First, research and see if you actually have bryopsis--- look for the small, feathery tips (even if they look ragged) and look for it to be growing in patches/thickets..... it does NOT have runners like caulerpa. It's usually blue-green or dark hunter green.

Links for identification are found below.


Now, how to deal with it. This is going to be painful to read if you have a large-scale infestation of it.

1) No cleanup crew will predictably eat it. The odd tang or foxface has been known to eat it. 99.99999% of them (wild guess) will not touch it. I've NEVER seen with my own eyes any snail, crab, fish, urchin, or other critter that would eat it. It is very unpalatable to most creatures, and the only thing I know that eats it is a hard to find, temperate nudibranch that isn't found in the hobby and I have no idea where I read about it, I just know it exists.

2) No chemical solution is a guarantee. DEFINITELY TRY the Kent Tech M treatment (buy the specific product "Kent Tech M" and dose 80-100 ppm worth, every day, for a week). This has been known to kill bryopsis, but it didn't work long term for me--- the bryopsis came right back even though I jacked my magnesium up to 3,000ppm (no joke, and the only coral that I lost was a couple heads of torch and frogspawn, nothing major).

3) DO NOT PLUCK IT with the rocks still in the tank water. Shards of bryopsis can apparently reattach and start new colonies of this crap.



Other than the Tech M listed in #2 above, here are some other treatment options.

4) Full-scale invasions are the most difficult to deal with. If you have a full tank invasion, try the Tech M. If that doesn't work, I personally just would remove all animals from the tank, frag out all corals VERY VERY carefully (so that you don't get bryo in the frags), and put them all in a holding system. Then bleach-bomb the tank, sterilize it 100%, and sterilize the whole system. This is painful and a last resort but you aren't the first to have to do this. You can neutralize the bleach with cheap dechlorinator after a 100% water change.


5) If it's on specific rocks, but most rocks look clean, REMOVE the infested rock and bleach it. DO NOT risk it. No piece of pink, purdy rock is worth having bryopsis in your tank.

6) If it's on a coral, frag the coral and toss the infected part in the trash.

7) If it's in a zoanthid colony, attempt to frag it, but just know that this stuff is pure hell on zoanthids. I usually throw the zoa colony away if it's more than half covered, but then again I've only had colonies under 100 polyps. Larger colonies might be more salvageable. See #9 for a possible second option.

8) DO NOT SELL, TRADE, OR GIVE AWAY ANYTHING with bryopsis on it. That is the reef-keeping equivalent of giving your friend a terminal STD.

EDIT: Adding a new option that has surfaced that seems to help.

9) Hydrogen Peroxide--- the cheap 3% solution you buy at the grocery store--- seems to work to kill it on frags like zoanthids. Recently I had bryopsis sprout up on a yellow clove polyp frag, and I sprayed the peroxide (full 3% strength) on the frag to reach it deeper in between the polyps, and then gave it a soak in 50/50 tank water and 3% solution for several minutes (up to 5). You must be willing to kill the frag in the process, it's better to kill the frag than it is to risk NOT killing the bryopsis. However, it's been a week, my yellow cloves have opened back up a little, and all seems well-- no bryopsis to be see. I see this as most useful for treating infested frags, but it may hold promise for a whole-tank nuke without fully killing everything in your tank. An act of desperation might be removing any of your non-infected corals (and all fish/inverts) to a separate system, being willing to kill anything in your main display tank, and then start dosing cheap 3% hydrogen peroxide into your tank. I do not know how much would be necessary for a full scale bryo-kill without burning your corals up completely--- I suggest you google around for anyone trying this, or perhaps start with 1 pint of peroxide per 10-20 gallons of tank water (skimmer off during treatment).

----EDIT--- -a few weeks later, that yellow clove polyp frag is healthy as a horse, and has no bryopsis. I've killed bryopsis on several other frags recently, no problems at all killing corals. In fact, I have a yellow-zoa (the long-tentacled polyp type) that as a fast growing sponge overtaking the zoas, so I've soaked it three times (in three weeks) in the 50/50 mix of off-the-shelf peroxide and tank water. 5 minutes per soak. The sponge (which was quite thick) is receding quite nicely, and the yellow zoas are always open within 15 minutes. I am amazed at how little damage the peroxide does to soft corals!!!!




True freedom is not the freedom to do whatever you want; that is slavery in disguise.
True freedom is the freedom to always do what's right.
-- Old Stoic philosophy.

Government will NEVER solve the problems we elect them to solve, otherwise they'd be out of a job.
--
Eaton C. Bass

Last edited by redfishsc; 04-04-2012 at 08:54 PM.
redfishsc is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 56 (permalink) Old 01-02-2012, 11:01 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
Shortfin Mako
 
redfishsc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Summerville, SC
Posts: 9,979
Bryopsis plumosa is by far the most common one, and it takes on a couple different overall looks, depending on environment (light, water flow, etc).


Click this google search for a general idea.

https://www.google.com/search?q=bryo...w=1680&bih=925

Other sites that have great pics/info:

http://www.uniprot.org/taxonomy/3130

http://www.algaebase.org/search/spec...?species_id=10

http://www.horta.uac.pt/species/alga...is_plumosa.htm

http://www.marlin.ac.uk/speciesinfor...speciesID=2810

http://eol.org/pages/968087/overview




True freedom is not the freedom to do whatever you want; that is slavery in disguise.
True freedom is the freedom to always do what's right.
-- Old Stoic philosophy.

Government will NEVER solve the problems we elect them to solve, otherwise they'd be out of a job.
--
Eaton C. Bass

Last edited by redfishsc; 01-02-2012 at 11:03 PM.
redfishsc is offline  
post #3 of 56 (permalink) Old 01-02-2012, 11:11 PM
Senior Member
Eurypterid
 
reeffreak's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Grifton, NC
Posts: 19,585
Thanks Matt, I can make this a sticky.

I will add though I have seen with my own eyes in a friend of mines tank a fuzzy chiton mow the stuff down with avengence. I went back a week later and the rock was sparkling clean. Now that does not mean that it got the roots but as long as the chiton was in ther I am assuming it kept the bryopsis in check.....It also does not mean that it would work every time. It something definitely worthy of trying out if someone has that issue for only about $2.50 a pop online

~Cammie

"Do not ask the Lord to Guide your Footsteps if you are not willing to move your Feet'"

Last edited by reeffreak; 01-02-2012 at 11:30 PM.
reeffreak is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 56 (permalink) Old 01-03-2012, 08:44 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
Shortfin Mako
 
redfishsc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Summerville, SC
Posts: 9,979
Yeah it's worth a shot with the chitons but I have a suspicion it's hit or miss with individual animals.




True freedom is not the freedom to do whatever you want; that is slavery in disguise.
True freedom is the freedom to always do what's right.
-- Old Stoic philosophy.

Government will NEVER solve the problems we elect them to solve, otherwise they'd be out of a job.
--
Eaton C. Bass
redfishsc is offline  
post #5 of 56 (permalink) Old 01-03-2012, 12:14 PM
Senior Member
Tiger Fish
 
gatorchem's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Juno Beach Florida
Posts: 4,376
I had good luck with the Tech-M, but it is not really about the Mg level but rather the unknown impurity in the Tech-M that kills it. It has worked very well for many folks that raise the Mg with Tech-M by 15%-20% over a very shoot time (i.e. 2-3 days). Then keep it there. So I went from ~1200 ppm to ~1400ppm in two days and held it there and it was gone in a week.
redfishsc and FenixTX like this.

-Chad

Gatorchem's 90g Reef Build thread and updates


All LED's!
gatorchem is offline  
post #6 of 56 (permalink) Old 01-03-2012, 07:10 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
Shortfin Mako
 
redfishsc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Summerville, SC
Posts: 9,979
I think you are right Gator. That's what I did in my tank, the first time. It went away. But came back month later, with 0ppm nitrate and 0ppm phosphate showing on the Salifert (nitrate) and Seachem (phosphate) low range kits. Beats all I ever seen.


The second round was when I lost my temper with it and just nuke-bombed the tank, I went from 1400ppm to 3,000ppm in about a week. The bryo started to recede, got kinda pale, but then bounced back and started growing again even with the high Mg levels.


I wonder if the bryo I had developed some sort of resistance to the mystery-impurity that the Tech M has.




True freedom is not the freedom to do whatever you want; that is slavery in disguise.
True freedom is the freedom to always do what's right.
-- Old Stoic philosophy.

Government will NEVER solve the problems we elect them to solve, otherwise they'd be out of a job.
--
Eaton C. Bass
redfishsc is offline  
post #7 of 56 (permalink) Old 01-03-2012, 07:41 PM
Senior Member
Silverside
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Wilmington, NC
Posts: 1,515
Im actually losing a fight with bryopsis in my 90 gal. Ive dumped alot of tech m over that last couple of months... I just set up a 40 breeder and waiting for it to finish cycling so I can move my coral into it while I bleach everything. At first I felt like I was keeping up with it by picking it off but my overflow is covered in it, my back glass is covered in it, and my rock is covered in it. Funny thing is, there is no trace of it in my sump even though the U tube on my overflow has some in it.... I thought the dino outbreak i had in another tank was the worst thing ever.....until this. Its amazing how thick it grows as fast as it does. Does bryopsis occur in nature? Seems like at the rate mine spreads,50% of the ocean would be covered in it if its been around for 100 yrs... Lol, kinda sucks because I had moved the coral into that tank while my other tank was covered in dino (from swapping my old lights out to 8 new ATI bulbs is my best guess at why i got the dino outbreak). Weirdest observations so far is that mushrooms and anemones may be stronger then the bryopsis because the rock is clear around those. Anyways, good post. By far the worst thing I have encountered in my saltwater keeping...... so far.
encore is offline  
post #8 of 56 (permalink) Old 01-12-2012, 09:56 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
Shortfin Mako
 
redfishsc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Summerville, SC
Posts: 9,979
Bryopsis does occur in nature and I've seen articles about it proliferating to plague proportions in some areas, however I think there are naturally occurring herbivores that help clean it up.... but why we can't get them into the reef industry I don't know.

Bryopsis is IMO the worst thing you could ever get in your tank. I will kill (ie, remove and discard) any coral necessary to keep it out of my tank.


I have.... a few times.... warned people in For-Sale threads where frags had bryopsis sprigs on them..... didn't get any love from the poster about it but I'd rather piss off one person than see other hobbyists get this nightmare started in their tank.



reefermadness likes this.

True freedom is not the freedom to do whatever you want; that is slavery in disguise.
True freedom is the freedom to always do what's right.
-- Old Stoic philosophy.

Government will NEVER solve the problems we elect them to solve, otherwise they'd be out of a job.
--
Eaton C. Bass
redfishsc is offline  
post #9 of 56 (permalink) Old 01-14-2012, 11:16 AM
Senior Member
Shortfin Mako
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Guam, South Pacific
Posts: 9,943
Yeah it occurs in the wild and there are even some species local to NC. Here the tangs and chitons keep it mowed down on the reef and it is restricted to growing in tidal pools and areas that the grazers cannot get to.

I'm a lumberjack and I'm OK, I sleep all night and I work all day......

"I cannot afford to waste my time making money." -Louis Agassiz
JoeCreature is offline  
post #10 of 56 (permalink) Old 01-14-2012, 11:20 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
Shortfin Mako
 
redfishsc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Summerville, SC
Posts: 9,979
Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeCreature View Post
Yeah it occurs in the wild and there are even some species local to NC. Here the tangs and chitons keep it mowed down on the reef and it is restricted to growing in tidal pools and areas that the grazers cannot get to.


Is "here" referring to NC or in Curacao? Either way, whatever specie of tang eats bryopsis might be useful in a reef tank large enough to house it.

I've only heard anecdotal evidence of tangs eating it, are there any certain species of tangs that are more particular to eating bryo?




True freedom is not the freedom to do whatever you want; that is slavery in disguise.
True freedom is the freedom to always do what's right.
-- Old Stoic philosophy.

Government will NEVER solve the problems we elect them to solve, otherwise they'd be out of a job.
--
Eaton C. Bass
redfishsc is offline  
Reply

Bookmarks

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Carolina Fish Talk forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome